Toolkit Tailoring Studio

Here’s a perfect before and after. In a pinch, a client sent off a new pair of black Frame jeans to the dry cleaner down the street for a hem. Not all original hem alterations are treated with the care they deserve. If you look at the first 3 pics in the sequence, you will see 2 rows of topstitching. This might slide on a black pair but what if it were a blue denim? The next frame is what the inside looks like, this pic is darker in color, a thick overlocked edge on the inside. The finished product is a wavy, stretched out hem. I had to remove the additional topstitching, a row of straight stitch where they attached it, and the thick overlock edge they used to finish the seam. I then started from where I always begin by removing the original stitch and attaching from there. The 3-6 images are the new straight hem, the inside and outside. It’s always more work for me to fix other’s mistakes but the payoff is a straight hem and a happy client.

You can’t always get what you want… yes Mick, we know. I’ve worked with Mick but that’s a story for another day. Today we will be talking about a perfect blouse. I recently finished a custom blouse for a client. Think, The Row, pure luxury. Two layers of 2 ply cream silk, the perfect weight for any season really. Starting with a favorite blouse helps. A pattern is drafted, a toile out of muslin is created for the first fitting. I used a softer fabric than muslin to mimic the drape of the silk. The neckline, sleeve length and hem were marked in the fitting. I never cut into the final fabric until the toile is perfected on the body. A 2nd fitting in the final fabric is scheduled and the last meeting is delivery. Every seam is finished, steamed and I sew bra strap carriers in the shoulders to hold the blouse in place. To be honest, I don’t often take custom projects, it can be cost prohibitive especially after fabric and fitting time are calculated. Having the perfect blouse can be priceless, this is the first of many in several colors. Now back to my regularly scheduled program of alterations, my preferred way to spend the work day.

Looks can be deceiving. A huge part of tailoring for a client may include some detective work. Stitches leave behind evidence. By looking inside the lining you can see how something was previously altered, wonderfully or horribly. If there’s seam allowance or none to spare. In this case, the Marni blazer fit beautifully except for the armhole. Much too tight. In the fitting, I took a few minutes to open the seam (there is always a small area in every jacket that is topstitched or hand sewn to allow for entry). I pulled out what was an extraordinary large shoulder pad. Yes, blazers need a shoulder pad but don’t necessarily need the extra pieces added for fashion’s sake. Lesson: before returning a beautiful piece, ask a detective for their help. Close up shot of safety pin buttonhole because it’s amazing.