The Spa Guy

Spa Tip: Hot Tub Placement

You gave the salesperson your down payment on a new spa, and hopefully, within a year, a delivery crew will be pulling up to your place ready to install it. (As of August 2021, customers in central Oregon are waiting over a year for a new tub.) You may already have a spot picked out and even prepared, but just in case I’m not too late, here are a few things to consider when choosing a location for your spa.

The biggest favor you can do yourself and your future repair person is to place the spa so that all 4 sides are exposed with a minimum of 2 feet of clearance on each side. That means not putting it right up against the house, and certainly not pushed back into a corner. For one, they’re easier to push in than they are to pull back out.

The worst thing you can do is set the tub on a pad, and then build the deck around it so that it is recessed into the deck. It looks nice, but it's very impractical. Builders typically build a hatch into the deck that can be removed on the one side where the pumps and electronics are located. That does not help you, however, if your tub is losing water and everything on the access side is bone dry.

The sad truth is that your beautiful, brand-new tub may someday spring a leak, and it may be somewhere other than in that convenient access area. If the side closest to the leak is inaccessible, it will be you who needs to make it accessible before a repairman can do a thing. Getting a spa up and out of a hole in a deck is neither cheap nor easy. Even if you hire spa movers, you will need to make sure that they can gain good access to the tub, which means you or somebody is probably going to have to remove a bunch of decking.

If you are replacing a spa that is presently recessed in a deck, I strongly recommend decking over that hole when the old tub is removed. Then you're not trying to match the hole by placing the new spa above-deck, so to speak. The new spa should come with some steps that are perfect for getting in and out.

Aside from giving the spa two feet of access on all sides, there are a couple of other things to consider. You really, really shouldn’t put the spa under a tree if at all possible. Some trees (like junipers) are worse than others, but all will drop debris onto your spa. Aside from leaves, needles, pinecones, and squirrel crap, I’ve also found many a fallen branch on top of a now punctured and/or cracked spa cover. New spa covers start at around $375.

It’s also not a good idea to place the spa under the eaves of the roof. Roofs will channel debris into your spa, especially asphalt shingles which will provide you with a continuous rain of tiny cinders that will collect in the spa’s floor and seats. The real treat is discovering that there are iron filings in your shingles by the rust stains they leave on the otherwise pearly-white shell.

You really just want a level, or close-to-level pad for the spa to rest (no need to get crazy about it. Close is fine). It doesn’t have to be a wood or concrete base, but it can be. My tub is sitting semi-level on a bed of 2” landscape rocks, and I enjoy it just fine. I don’t recommend placing the tub too far away from the house. The further away, the less it calls to be used, especially when it’s cold outside.

Lastly, the cleaner the path to the spa, the cleaner the spa will stay. The cleanest tubs I maintain are ones where the owners walk from the house, onto a swept deck, and into the spa. If you have to walk through the yard to get to it, you’re going to bring in grass, dirt, and all kinds of crud, even if you are wearing flip-flops. Trust me.

Wherever you decide to put yours, having a tub is better than not having one. So, just enjoy it. And call me if you ever have a problem with it. You can also let me know if you would like to learn more about regular maintenance plans. Cheers.

Spa Tip: Mineral Sticks, Worth It?

First, what is a mineral stick? They are cartridges or “sticks” filled with minerals that are anti-bacterial or anti-microbial by nature. The idea is to have them in the spa to aid in sanitation. Sounds like a great idea except for the two cons: price and life. Last I checked, they cost between $35 and $45 per stick. It also should say on the packaging that they are good for about 3 months. So, to use these as a part of your sanitation ritual, you’ll be spending roughly $140-$180 a year on mineral cartridges.

The question is always, are they worth it? My answer is, I don’t know. I do know that if your spa gets any regular use, the stick itself will likely not be sufficient to keep it sanitized. You will need to add additional granular sanitizer. In fact, the stick should be thought of as an adjunct, and not the primary sanitizer. Note: some if not most mineral sticks are incompatible with bromine sanitizer. Check with the salesman before purchasing mineral sticks if you use, or plan to use bromine in your spa.

Lastly, I have seen mineral sticks make the situation worse rather than better. Back when I was in retail spa sales and service, mineral sticks were sold to be inserted in the center of the filter cavity (pic 1.) The idea is that the water flows through the filter and over the mineral stick on its way back into the spa. The problem is that doing so introduces a large obstruction into what is often the only return route with a filter in the path. There are other returns in the foot-well of your spa where the water can be pulled in by the pump(s) besides having to pass through the filter(s). I have found that placing a mineral stick in the center of a filter can reduce the overall filtration of the spa water. And this leads to a dirtier, cloudier, smellier tub. So, I now recommend that if you’re going to use a mineral stick, place it in the catch-basket, if there is one (pic. 2), or just lay it in the filter compartment.

Spa Tip: If there is one thing rodents love, it's hot tubs. They are attracted to the warmth and protection that spas provide. I have seen full-blown rodent motels upon removing the side panels.
Aside from the "ick" factor, these little guys can cause damage rivaled only by sub-zero temps on a hot tub that isn't running (you don't want that; trust me).
Open your spa's access panel and check for the telltale signs: droppings, garbage, and insulation or plumbing that has been chewed. Piles of pilled insulation are also a sure sign.
Getting rid of rodents immediately is essential, and may require the expertise of an exterminator. To keep them out, examine the exterior of your spa closely for any cracks, gaps or holes, no matter how small, especially near the base. Cover them with wire mesh, or pack with steel wool. Getting an outdoor cat doesn't hurt either! 😊