Textile

أعلنت شركة دورنيير (Dornier) الألمانية المصنّعة لآلات النسيج عن آلتها الجديدة air-jet weaving machine A1
الآلة الجديدة تعمل بالدفع الهوائي (air-jet) ومجهّزة بنظام تحكم إلكتروني جديد بالكامل.

بحسب الشركة فإن هذه الآلة هي خيار جيّد من الناحية الإقتصادية ومناسبة لإنتاج الأقمشة التقنية والمفروشات المنزلية والأقمشة العادية المستخدمة للملابس لما تقدّمه من دقّة وخيارات متعدّدة, سواءً إذا كانت تعمل بنظام الكامات مع جهاز جاكار مزوّد بـ 12000 خطّاف (Hook), أو كانت تعمل بنظام الدوبي (Dobby) وعدد درآت (head frame) يصل إلى 16 درأة, أو تعمل بنظام Dornier EasyLeno.
يتراوح عرض الآلة بين 150 وحتى 540 سم.

الآلة تتضمّن عدّة مكوّنات حاصلة على براءات اختراع, منها Dornier PIC system و Dornier ServoControl-2 وأيضاً Dornier PneumaTucker وهذه المكوّنات تضمن تشغيل آمن ولامثيل له في آلات الدفع الهوائي.


بحسب الشركة يمكن استخدام آلة A1 لإنتاج طيف واسع من المنتجات كالأقمشة التقنيّة مثل أقمشة الحرير المستخدمة في صناعة الأشرعة (spinnaker), وأقمشة الوسائد الهوائية, والمفروشات المستخدمة في مقاعد السيارات والطائرات.
كذلك أقمشة الملابس الصوفيّة, وأقمشة الداماسك المصنّعة من القطن المصري.
وأيضاً أقمشة الملابس الرياضية والمفروشات المنزلية كالستائر وأغطية الطاولات

=> Basic Concept of Weft Knitted Structures:

=> About weft knitted structures:
There are many types of knitted fabrics , which produced by different types knitted structure .According to the arrangement of loops in their course and wales , there are four basic groups of knitted structure . All types of knitted fabrics are derived from those basic structure.

=> Weft Knitted Structures:
=> Name of the knitted structures:
Those basic / primary structures are...........
1. Plain / Single knit structure.
2. Rib structure.
3. Purl knit structure.
4. Interlock structure.


=> How can we identify the plain knit structure fabrics:
Plain knit structure is the simplest and most basic structure. It's also called single knit structure . It's produced by the needles of one set of needle with all the loops intermeshed in the same direction. We can identify the plain knit structure fabrics as following properties........
1. The fabric is unbalanced and different appearance on face and back side . V shapes on face and Arcs on back .
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate ( 10-20%). and widthwise extensibility is high ( 30-50%) .
3. The fabric extensibility area is moderate to high.
4. The fabric is thicker and warmer than plainwoven made from same yarn.
5. The plain knit structure can be easily unravelled from the edge which was knitted last .Unroving either end .
6. The fabric has tendency to curl. Notation of plain knit structure:
* * * *
* * * *
* * * *
* * * *
Face loop
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
0 0 0 0
Back loop


=> End Uses:
Plain knit structures are used for basic T-shirt(men's and ladies) , Under garments , men's vest , ladies hosiery ,fully fashioned knit wear etc.



=> How can we identify Rib structures fabrics:
Rib is the second family of knit structures . It's also called double - knit . It's requires twosets of needles operating in between each other so that wales of face stitches and walesof back stitches are knitted on each side of the fabric . We can identify the Rib structure fabrics as following properties------
1. Same appearance in both sides of rib fabric.Like face of plain .
2. Lengthwise extensibility of the fabric is moderate and widthwise extensibility is very high (50-100%).
3. The fabric extensibility area is high.
4. The fabric is much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Rib structures can be unravelled from the edge knitted last . Unroving only form end knitted last .
6. No tendency to curl . Notation of rib structures:
* 0 * 0
* 0 * 0
* 0 * 0
1*1 Rib structure

=> End Uses:
Rib structures are uses for--Socks , cuffs , waistbands , collars , men's outerwear , knitwear , under wear etc.


=> How can we identify purl knit structures fabric:
Purl knit structures is the third family of knit structures . As with rib structures , it's requires the participation of both needle beds for the production of the loops. We can identify the Purl structures fabric as followingproperties....
1. Same appearance on both sides . Like back of plain .
2. Lengthwise extensibility is very high and widthwise extensibility is high.
3. The fabric extensibility area is very high.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unroving either end.
6. No tendency to curl. Notation of purl knit structure:
0 0 0
* * *
0 0 0
1*1 purl knit


=> End Uses:
Purl structures are uses for---Children's clothing , knitwear , thick and heavy outerwear etc.

=> How can we identify the interlock structures fabric:
Interlock is another 1*1 rib variant structure which is produced on specially designed machines . Those machines possess two sets of needles ( short and long needles) in both cylinder and dial and at least two feeders . Wecan identify the interlock structure fabric as following properties-----
1. Same appearance on both sides , like face of plain.
2. Lengthwise extensibility is moderate and widthwise extensibility is moderate.
3. Extensibility area is moderate.
4. Very much thicker and warmer than plain woven.
5. Unroving only from end knitted last.
6. No tendency to curl. Notation of interlock structure:
* 0 * 0
0 * 0 *
Interlock structure

=> End Uses:
Interlock structures are use for-- Underwear ,shirts , suits , trouser suits , sportswear , dresses etc.

=> Conclusion:
Mainly we can identify any types of knitted fabric by appearance. Here I only given some basic knowledge about weft knit structure , by which we can generally identify different types of weft knitted fabric.

=> Reference:
1. Understanding textile for a merchandiser by Engr. Shah Alimuzzaman Belal.
2. Some of My practical knowledge.
3. Textile Learner



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